But of course, I'm only saying what I would do, its your money, its your gun, its your ammo, etc so have a ball. That is how Colts are supposed to be, so to say thats not important, or that its heresay is just asking for it. Most Colts that I have had or handled had a cylinder which was tight as a drum with trigger back, and stayed locked with hammer cocked. I don't think any of us took a Colt that was able to be moved out of alignment aka out of time, and then shot it 1000s of times, to verify that nothing would ever happen to that gun. So when you have a Colt that can move out of alignment with the bore, you will just cause more damage and pre mature wear to the gun by continuing to shoot it. There is obviously a chance that if a gun cocked slow could be out of alignment, that under normal shooting it could occur as well. The problem with the whole cocking slow vs cocking fast opinion is that you aren't going to check to make sure the gun is in alignment before each shot. In addition, my Grandfather's Python, a 1970s model, required re-timing. Medium frame with hammer mounted firing pin = E frame.ĪFAIK, the pre war frames were not denoted by the same names, and the pre war frames slightly differ in size vs the post war frames.Īs I said before, I've personally had 3 Colts that lost their timing and required sending back to Colt (or someone else) for repair. Medium frame, with frame mounted firing pin = I frame. I frame Colts were the 357 model and the Colt Python, only. Actually, none of those guns are Colt I frames.

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